While the lower city pulses with modern energy, Ano Poli remains frozen in time. As the only neighborhood to survive the Great Fire of 1917, it’s a labyrinth of cobblestone alleys, timber-framed houses, and Byzantine fortresses. Perched on the city’s highest point, it offers a peaceful escape with the best sunsets in the Balkans. Use this guide to discover the soul of Thessaloniki’s “Upper Town.”